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304 North Cardinal St.
Dorchester Center, MA 02124
Forget Greyfriars Bobby, there’s a new faithful hound in town and it’s guarding the most decadent dog-friendly hotel your four-legged friend is ever likely to set paws in. The hound in question is an enormous statue of a Great Dane, the first of many picture-perfect spots photogenic pups will encounter at Prestonfield, a neo-baroque mansion 15 minutes’ drive (or 45 minutes’ walk) from Edinburgh town centre.
Prestonfield is the beautiful, maximalist antithesis of every sensible, low-key, dog-friendly hotel or pub you’ve ever stayed in, with their ugly but easy-to-clean, hard-wearing carpets, their cheap, “if it’s gnawed it’s not the end of the world” furniture and their underwhelming bar menus of burgers, chips and sticky toffee pudding.
While many hotels have jumped on the dog-friendly bandwagon despite being simply dog-tolerant, Prestonfield really does what it says on the tin. Dogs can stay in all the bedrooms and suites and at no extra charge, unlike most other “dog-friendly” hotels, which usually impose a fee.
Approaching the neat but deceptively simple grey and white house, my pomeranian, Esme, was excited to see peacocks strutting about the lawn — clues to the luxury waiting within. As we walked towards the entrance, one peacock flew up onto the grand sandstone portico and looked condescendingly down at us below.
We received a much warmer welcome from the staff, who led us through the black-and-white marble-floored entrance hall with its sloe gin-coloured walls and orchid-filled urns, through to the hall, all black, burgundy, gold and pink-striped carpets, plush leather and velvet seats and general hubbub. The entrance hall may have been striking but the decadence was turned up to 11 in the bedrooms. They’re a profusion of tapestry-thick curtains, giant gilded mirrors, elaborate wallpaper and sumptuous, over-stuffed cushions.
The hotel offers treats aplenty for your Very Important Pups too. Two luxe dog bowls (Le Chameau, £30 a pop) were set genteelly on a towel, a fluffy bed was provided in the room and at dinner, and a selection of high-quality treats were in our room on arrival (Esme loved the Pet Munchies “sushi”). There was also a generous jar of biscuits at the reception and, although there is no in-house dog-sitting, walking or grooming service, the friendly concierge made it clear he was always on hand to book these and more.
The suites feature chaises longues, enormous carriage clocks, sleigh beds and marble writing desks. Everything is colour, art and grandeur. It may, admittedly, be too much for some. Not for Esme, however, who was a big fan of her view of grey squirrels dashing around the immaculate lawns.
• Dog days out: canine-friendly hotels
Walkies are a breeze here, the red gravel paths around the house enough for small dogs but Arthur’s Seat, looming next to the hotel, a challenge demanding to be met by bigger, fitter dogs and their fitter owners. Having earned your suppers, get spruced up for what can only be described as the most romantic meal a pooch and owner will ever have.
Sadly that’s not at Rhubarb as the hotel’s lavish fine-dining restaurant is off-limits to dogs, but rather in the Salon Prive, a charming nook with a single table, room for a dog bed and bowl and views of the ornate, fairy-lit lawns. As with all things Prestonfield, it is still ridiculously opulent, with a decadent decor and rich, indulgent menu to match, including a slow-cooked Tweeddale beef, Alva Glen roe deer and sharing dishes for two such as Angus beef chateaubriand and whole roast wild mallard. The lighting is low, candles are lit and even the saucers, decorated with an image of the house, add to a shamelessly high-end sense of place.
After dinner there’s plenty to explore in the lounges, all of which are dog-friendly. Among them are the whisky room, a striking spot for a dram featuring furniture and candleholders made of antlers, and the tapestry room with its red and gold sofas, chess sets and books.
The lord provost of Edinburgh, Sir James Dick, lived at Prestonfield and employed the Holyroodhouse architect Sir William Bruce to rebuild it in 1687. Of course the grandeur, history and royal associations will be utterly lost on the dogs, more concerned with the treats at reception and the romps outside. But when it comes to an Edinburgh getaway, this decadent doghouse is Best in Show.Yvette Caster was a guest of Prestonfield (prestonfield.com), which has B&B doubles from £375
Cheval the Edinburgh GrandThese high-end apartments in the former Bank of Scotland HQ on St Andrews Square come with a kitchen and all mod cons. Your pet can join you for breakfast, afternoon tea or cocktails and light snacks at the Register Club on the fourth floor (room-only doubles from £234, chevalcollection.com)
DogHouse EdinburghFor location alone, BrewDog’s hotel is hard to beat. Five minutes’ walk from Waverley station and the Royal Mile, it has a dog-friendly restaurant and can supply dog beds and treats (£5 extra) to all 20 bachelor pad-vibe rooms. Room-only doubles from £171, brewdog.com
B+B EdinburghThe Paw menu at this West End hotel marks it out as a top pup-friendly option, with dishes including the City Boy Breakfast (apples, banana, melon and spinach) and the Frenchie (chopped boiled egg with cheese and parsley). B&B doubles from £221.50, bb-edinburgh.com
Moxy Edinburgh FountainbridgeStaying at a budget hotel doesn’t mean you have to leave the dog behind or stay at a character-free chain. Moxy leads the pack with stylish rooms, dog toys, treats and doggie “cocktails”. B&B doubles from £99, dogs £15 extra; marriott.com
Black IvyThis boutique Bruntsfield hotel has cheerful rooms and a dog-friendly restaurant and bar. Room-only doubles from £139, weareblackivy.com